L2L Day 50 Grasmere to Keswick - 13 miles

Over breakfast I met the Top Totties of Totnes, Topsham, Tiverton.....NO NO NO!! these were the Top Totties of Budleigh Salterton. 


Debbie, Ellen, Franki and Katy are all members of the Budleigh running club and were walking the Coast to Coast.

Unfortunately Ellen was suffering from a cold and not feeling Top of the Form this morning.
Katy knows the area well and also key members of the mountain rescue team so all should be OK. Spirits were high as they set off for sandwiches to sustain them for the high walk over to Patterdale.

Not wanting to walk the whole 14 miles and almost 4000 ft ascent to Keswick, I caught the 09:39 555 bus to Wythburn.



Having read the mwis Mountain weather forecast I was still in two minds about going over the top to Derwent Water, but go, I did. 

The steep climb up from West Head, can't be popular as there was little if any evidence of a track and, frustratingly, by the time I'd arrived at Birk Crag I'd already lost my way three times. There's little to beat a simple compass.



As I climbed up in the quietness, enjoying the birdsong and the sound of water in the streams a USAirForce F15 below me, roared deafeningly across Thirlemere not more than a quarter a mile away. It made me feel that if Supreme Leader Trump wants to carry on "buddying" up to Putin then perhaps his pilots should b***** o** and go and frighten someone else's sheep.


The silence of Harrop Tarn is perfect. I watched a heron looking at his reflection in the water.


Then a slow climb up through the forest  and on to the moor above Mosshause Gill.



Long Moss was quite soggy in parts and it wasn't always easy to find a path to Shivery Knott.




From my Googling, I think this might have been an Argent and Sable moth. Impressive camouflage!

Beyond High Tove the track was paved, progress was easy and I met the first person for almost four hours.

The views all along the ridge had been amazing with Helvellyn to the East and Hay Stacks and Great Gable to the West. The wind was blowing strongly but fortunately the gusts weren't as disruptive as they'd been forecast. 


The rain came and went and came again producing very dramatic lighting effects.

From Blaeberry Fell, the track down was steep but easy to follow. 




On the way down, I met a couple who recommended that I should take a diversion to see Ashness Bridge - an old packhorse bridge over Barrow Beck at High Strutta.




Tormentil.

As I came down through Great Wood I stepped down on to the road and having not heard a vehicle all day (apart from that f****** F15 !!!) I was almost frightened by the loudness and speed of the cars.

To get away from the traffic I walked down to Calf Close Bay 


and met Clare who was enjoying a calm walk along the shore. We fell into conversation.
Clare has had a portfolio career and has a refreshing view of life. Originally from Newcastle she has lived near Derwent Water for the last 20 years 
  

She is a keen walker and Mountain Leader - and until Brexit was often based in Chamonix. Her love of Geography led to teaching and she combines both with her care for the environment in her role inspiring young people.
Clare kindly joined me walking towards Keswick introducing me to a Norwegian Maple, 


St.Herbert's Island, 


the Split Stones,


the Ruskin sculpture, Friar's Crag, Keswick Theatre


and Moot Hall. 
She could be an ambassador for Keswick.
It's rare to get someone with such passionate interest and pride in their home town. We could have talked for ages, it was a pleasure to meet her.

Supper at the Royal Oak was good. I was starving and the Black pudding and chorizo Scotch Egg hit the spot. 


And just for my record, I eventualy finished The Brothers K, yesterday. What an  amazing and unforgettable book. 
Alyosha's prayer in the Epilogue is beautiful. I cried.


Comments

  1. Jill and Neil14 May 2026 at 12:39

    No mention of your back today, so I hope it’s better. Some wonderful photos and great sketches. Hope the weather warms up a bit for when I join you - but not too much!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Franki14 May 2026 at 14:39

      It was lovely to meet you David. All the best for the rest of your adventures. From the Hot Totties

      Delete
    2. David's 2022 Walk14 May 2026 at 15:09

      Hi Franki. It was fun to meet you all. I hope you survived today's hailstones. Have a great C2C. Dx

      Delete

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